Rainwater Harvesting for Michigan Homes

What would it cost to build a water-catchment system for a home in SE Michigan? Code and other such issues will vary widely, but the actual construction costs are likely to be relatively uniform. I recently discovered that the city of Guelph, Ontario has done some great forward thinking work on encouraging rainwater catchment for their residents. I emailed the folks at Guelph, and they referred me to Ben Polley, a builder with Evolve Builders. Ben provided me with these excellent details about their cost and performance estimates.

Note that these figures include a good number of caveats about current unknowns and several costs that are not included, but they give us a good start on tracking down the overall costs. If you have additional data to round this picture out more, please let us know in the comments below.

Also,  see my personal post about how this could be used in Detroit (including costs and references for going completely off the water grid) over at the SkyTalk blog at lagomorph.org.

Ben writes:

Hi Jacob,

In a former life, I used to perform work on the refrigeration systems in ice rinks in both Ann Arbor and Novi, MI.  From that experience, I would expect that the pricing in formation below will be reasonably consistent with what you may find in Michigan too.

I have included below for your interest some excerpts of a design study we performed for a southern-Ontario project and the resulting price proposals.  You will note that there are multiple items not considered in the quote that would yet further impact on final cost of construction though are difficult to assess unless aware of the full context of the work (eg. is it being performed at the same time as other excavating work in the example of a new home or is it a retrofit; whether one uses indoor storage tanks or an exterior buried cistern; which is more important, ensuring maximum utility of captured water or ensuring minimum number of “dry days” where water must be made up by other sources, etc).

So while these excerpts may also result in as many questions as it may answer, it should at least provide you with a ballpark starting figure for a couple of different types of system for a few different options of roof captured surface areas.

And then he provides those clips from the study:

Project Calculations:

OPTION 1:

Active Storage Tank volume = 3200L

Performance parameter Unit House + Garage House only Half House + Garage Half House only Garage only
Catchment area m2 254 200 154 100 54
% of user demand met % 98% 98% 97% 91% 68%
% of rain utilized % 28% 35% 45% 67% 95%
Number of dry days - 7 9 14 37 137
Number of overflow events - 74 64 51 28 3
Volume of rainwater used m3 52 51 51 48 36
Volume of overflow m3 135 96 63 25 2
OPTION 2:

Active Storage Tank volume = 6400L

Performance parameter Unit House + Garage House only Half House + Garage Half House only Garage only
Catchment area m2 254 200 154 100 54
% of user demand met % 100% 100% 99% 97% 70%
% of rain utilized % 29% 36% 47% 71% 99%
Number of dry days - 1 1 2 13 126
Number of overflow events - 74 63 49 24 1
Volume of rainwater used M3 53 52 52 51 37
Volume of overflow M3 134 95 61 22 0

% of user demand met – the percentage of all toilet flushes supplied solely by harvested and stored rainwater annually

% of rain utilized  – the amount of water harvested with available tank storage capacity relative to overall amount of harvested water

Number of dry days – the number of days in a year where the cistern may not have sufficient water to handle the assumed usage

Number of overflow events – the number of rainfalls that fill storage tanks to capacity with additional water being sent to overflow

Volume of rainwater used – the annual volume of water harvested and stored in the tanks then used by the proposed fixtures

Volume of overflow – the annual volume of water harvested but sent to overflow after filling storage tanks to capacity

EVOLVE RAINWATER HARVESTING SYSTEM
ITEM INDOOR SYSTEM DESCRIPTION OUTDOOR BURIED SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
Snow Capture extra by others extra by others
Winter Optimization extra by others extra by others
Coarse Prefiltration Leaf Flusher at 6 downspouts, all on either Leaf Flusher at 6 downspouts, all on either
the south side or north side only the south side or north side only
Transport of Water yes, including above-grade penetrations yes, including foundation penetrations
Cistern 2 x 1300 litres 1 x 6300 litres c/w 24″ riser
space required 6′-6″x7′-0″, 32″ door access tank size 102″x72″x78″H, bury 24″ deep
access path required along one short side installed within 15′ of building
minimum 24″ separation from septic lines
Overflow Protection yes with  floor drain by others yes, via leaching pit or gravity drain
Fine Filtration Yes none
Calming Inlet Yes yes
Drought Protection automatic automatic
Water Treatment: micron filter none required none required
Water Treatment: carbon filter none required none required
Disinfection: UV disinfector none required none required
Plumbing to Fixtures fixture feeds from RWH pump by others fixture feeds from RWH pump by others
pump requires 3′-0″x3′-0″ adjacent to cistern pump requires 3′-0″x3′-0″ adjacent to
foundation penetrations
Electrical extra by others extra by others
Plumbing fixture feeds & auto make-up extra by others fixture feeds & auto make-up extra by others
Mains shutoff must be functional for retrofits Mains shutoff must be functional for retrofits
Site Management n/a site visit to ensure satisfactory excavation
Excavation & Fill n/a trenching, excavation & tank base fill extra
by others.  Groundwater drainage if req’d
extra by others.
Price for above: $8,980 +GST $10,750 +GST
OPTIONAL INDOOR SYSTEM OUTDOOR SYSTEM
Indoor Tank Shade Cover If open to sunlight, add $200 per tank N/A
Aditional Tanks Each 1300 litre tank, add $1350 N/A
Larger Tank N/A Increase tank to 12,600 litres, add $2400
Level Gauge N/A Add $300

[Update:  Be sure to check out the comments for this post, as there are additional tech details and resource links.]

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New Roof

I need a new roof (& am going DIY) & wondering if you have any advise on roofing materials /construction, etc….

- Chris, Waterford

Hey Chris,
I first started composing long lists of eco-roofing concepts, etc. Then I realized I just need to write back! Ha! So here’s my thoughts in a nutshell:

1) This is the time to make sure your insulation is up to snuff in your attic as it’s the easiest time to fix it. Code requires R30 at this point. If you can push it up closer to R50, that’s the recommendation for our climate.

2) Make sure that you’ve got proper venting, and that your venting includes baffles to ensure that air flow doesn’t ruin your insulation. See the picture below for an example. You can buy these cheap – though you can also make your own (speaking of DIY) with carboard. A properly vented roof will keep your home more comfortable in the summer, but it’ll also make the roof last a lot longer since heat kills shingles.

3) Go for lighter colors – they reflect more heat, making the roof last longer, as per above.

4) Shingles are still what most folks use. However, if you want some other options, you might consider a metal roof, which lasts a really long time (so you don’t have the same replacement costs down the road) and it’s better for water catchment and rainwater harvesting if you’re interested in that.

5) If you want to go further out on a limb, we can start talking recycled roofing material,  solar shingles or a green roof, but I’m guessing that’s farther that you plan to go….

You can browse some product listings here and  here and find a nice article on all of this, with more references: here.

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Innovation for dealing with Lead Based Paint

Lead paint is a serious health hazard – and it’s notorious for being expensive to re-mediate. I’ve long been a fan of MT2′s EcoBond lead remediation paint. It’s not the encapsulating paint that many people use for lead abatement – where the lead is encased so that it won’t come loose. Rather, the Ecobond paint is high in phosphates which creates a chemical reaction with the lead in the pre-existing paint. This turns the lead into leadphosphate which is not hazardous in the same way.

Basically, you paint this on like a primer. Then you can either paint a new paint over that, knowing that the hazard is neutralized.  Or, you paint this on and can then scrape the lead paint off without creating a hazard. I’ve used this material and it’s not pretty – you certainly wouldn’t want to leave it as a final coat.  But that’s not what it’s intended for.

This makes better lead remediation cheaper and easier to tackle for home owners and rehab construction crews. With the new lead laws in place, I think it’s time for more people to know about this product. It can also help the burgeoning deconstruction world improve safety and cut costs.
Find more info here. You can also watch the video below. It’s produced by the manufacturer, so it’s a bit of a sales job, but I think it’s a product worth knowing about.

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Insulating Crawlspaces

We’re looking for information on best practices for insulating a crawlspace on a 100 year old home in Northern Michigan.

- Jane, Boyne City

Many Michigan homes have crawlspaces. These offer some great opportunities for energy savings, but also real challenges for proper insulation installation and moisture management. In general, we have to make sure to create a continuous thermal barrier for the whole house, prevent moisture flow up from the ground and close off the venting. Despite the fact that many codes require vented crawlspaces, we now know that the venting leads to additional moisture and energy problems.

For best practices, I don’t think there’s a better guide than this one from the Building America program.  For some additional research, I would also look at this article from Home Energy magazine – just keep in mind that this test was done in North Carolina, which has different climate concerns than Michigan. Also for additional research and information on how it intersects with codes, I’d recommend this article.

http://www.bestofbuildingscience.com/pdf/Closed%20crawlspaces%20do%20double%20duty%20HEM_SP05_p32-36.pdf
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Professional Green certifications

We’re expanding our ministry and doing more green work including things like community gardens, kitchen renovations, etc.  Can we pursue some kind of green certification for this?

- Dave, Madison Heights

Congrats on the new efforts – they sound great! While entire homes or neighborhoods can achieve a green certification, neither of these approaches seem relevant to the scale of work that you’re doing. From what you’ve described, I think the best route would be to tackle professional green certifications and training for the people who’ll be working on these projects. Here are a few options:

  1. Green Advantage – this is designed for people who will be working on green construction projects. It is designed as a compliment to the national LEED standard, and works closely with LEED, but is geared toward the worker that does not need the full rigor of the LEED Accredited Professaional (LEED AP).  Trainings aren’t required to take the test, but trainings are available in Michigan.
  2. LEED AP or LEED Green Associate – The LEED AP designation is the defining certification for green building and has been at the head of the industry. While this might be useful for a project leader, it may be overkill for what you’re working on. Also the LEEDHowever, LEED now also offers a LEED Green Associate certification which is a lighter certification that might fit better.
  3. NAHB Certified Green Professional – This is the Green builder certification offered by the National Association of Home Builders. Also, a nationally recognized program with a good reputation.

Those are the main green building certifications available. You also might want to consider just pursuing educational work for folks (without any particular certification) for the community garden work you’re doing. I would primarily recommend two resources for this:

  1. The Garden Resource Program – I cannot say enough good things about this program and the educational offerings associated with it. It’s homegrown here in Detroit and has transformed the community garden and urban food world. They offer classes on everything from gardening basics to composting and beekeeping.
  2. MSU Extension – The state standard for gardening information.

And of course if you want a general introduction to Green Building course, WARM is always happy to provide that.

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Solar Calculator

Here’s a handy solar calculator to help determine if you can use/afford solar electricity (PV) on your home or business. It’s just a rough calculator, but puts out some nice details, including incentives, etc.

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