Stay out of the dark with dimmable CFL’s

Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) have been around for some time now, but for years they were not able to dim.  This left many people who have dimmable sockets with no choice other than using outdated incandescent bulbs, consuming approximately five times more energy.  Fortunately, there do exist new dimmable CFL bulbs, but there is still a lot of controversy over how well they work and what are good applications for them.  In order to insure that you are getting the most for your time and money, it is important to understand a few key points about CFL bulbs.

First of all, CFL bulbs work best in the simplest forms of dimmers.  It is best if the dimmer has: (i) a positive off, meaning that it clicks when turned all the way down, (ii) that there is no on/off switch in addition to the dimming control, and (iii) that the dimmer control is not electronic.

Dimmers without a positive off can maintain a residual current through the circuit even if the bulb is not ignited, this will keep the ballast activated, and burn it out well before it’s expected lifespan.

If the dimmer has an on/off switch in addition to the dimmer control, then the configuration can also send residual energy through the circuit, burning out the bulb prematurely.

All fluorescent bulbs send out harmonic distortion when operating.  Some models of electric dimmers can be sensitive to this and the harmonic distortion from the bulbs can actually ruin the dimming device, costing even more than replacing the bulb.

In short, if considerations are being made to convert to dimmable CFL bulbs, care must be taken to insure that the dimming configuration itself is the right type for such an application.

When the decision is made to install a dimmable fluorescent bulb, then there are still additional steps to be certain that the bulb is the right type and will perform satisfactorily.

Try a single CFL at first to be sure that it is desired before making a complete switch.  Take out the old incandescent bulbs in the same circuit as the fluorescent.  Incandescent bulbs provide far more resistance than fluorescent because there is a tiny filament being heated through which electricity is reduced; this reduction can affect the fluorescent bulb’s performance.

When the new fluorescent bulb is installed, it should be run at full power for 6-8 hours before being turned down and tested.  To do this, run the bulb at 100% power for at least 6 hours, and then begin to turn down the power slowly.  A quality fluorescent bulb should reduce to about 20% power before turning off completely (they still don’t dim down quite as far as their incandescent counterparts).  When the bulb reaches the 20% threshold it should begin to flicker as if it is going to burn out, at which point it can be turned on and tester at whatever power setting is desired.

If a dimmable CFL is right for your application it can be a great choice, saving money and maintenance, and providing more quality light.  Currently, most companies offer up to a 100W equivalent (to an old incandescent) CFLs, these are available in the typical spiral shape, floor, or globe to resemble incandescent lamps.  There are even soft white CFLs which produce a more yellow light like the old incandescent bulbs, but cool, whiter light is recommended especially in areas where detailed tasks like reading may take place.

On an additional note, several companies are now rolling out with LED lights for homes.  LED’s are more efficient and last longer than CFLs, and have promised a better dimming feature.  As they are an emerging technology there will be more to come on them in the near future.